The Flying Saucer in Área 21, Cusco

1,318 words, 7 minutes read time.

The Ancient City

Where was I? I was in Cusco, Perú months back. It was winter and the mountainous landscape stretched out in muted yellow tones. I don’t know if it was for the altitude, but there weren’t a whole lot of trees in Cusco. I had the problem of being perpetually underdressed in the chill, yet rarely paid the price—at least not until I got home and my body started to act up. Traveller’s fatigue or whatever you call it, history repeats itself, yet I never learn.

Right. And so I came across this place on Google Maps during one of my sessions of virtually strolling around the world. An odd discovery on one of the hills of Cusco. Aliens, huh? Though I was more than familiar with them, being one myself (from this planet’s standpoint), I was intrigued by what this place could possible have to offer.

Entrance to Área 21, Cusco. June 2025.

It was a few days before I walked the Salkantay Trek, and was faced with the first dry season blizzard in six years on the Salkantay pass at 4700 m.a.s.l. I was situated at a wee hostel right on one side of Plaza San Francisco. It was the time for Inti Raymi, aka Inka’s Festival of the Sun and the streets were teeming with tourists. In Cusco, everything was built or paved with shiny stone bricks: the houses around, the churches, the colonial streets as well as the acient ruins faintly visible on the hills. Though fairly undeveloped, it was a nice culturally vibrant town. Yet, I had seen too much of the museums and chapels during my trip in South America and was deterred from getting that bulky one-for-all ticket that covered over a dozen main attractions of the city, and costed around 130 soles. I remember going to the counter at Palacio de la Municipalidad Provincial del Cusco, where the clerk whipped out that monster of a ticket and I was like, no thanks. I’d just go rot in my hostel.

Or would I? I remembered this place I long had in my “Want to go” folder on Google Map. It did look like far too distant a place from the city center of Cusco, and coming back from there could prove too difficult (it was), but as always I didn’t care. I pulled out my phone to call an Uber, and in a few minutes a blue Audi sedan pulled up to me at Plaza San Francisco, the driver was a young man in his 30s.

The half-hour ride was a 17 soles (4.8 USD), which was honestly way too cheap. It was the first time I felt sorry for my Uber driver. It probably cost him hundreds of times more to fix the damage that ride must have done to his car’s chassis. As we drove away from the city center, up windy roads onto the hills, and into more remote areas, the driver got more and more nervous, and it was evident from his driving. The paved road ended at some point, replaced by a bumpy dirt road winding up the hills. ATVs and dune buggies were rushing by from on top the hill, stirring up unholy amount of dusts, people riding were screaming in fun. I thought my driver must be screaming inside too, as our ride was accompanied by the arrhythmic thuds of the base of the cars hitting against the bumps on the road. Our heads were both involuntarily nodding from the shake, though not in union. The driver’s hands firmly gripped onto his steering wheel, eyes straight ahead, pushing forward at a formidable 15km/h like a sailor in a storm. I did not say a thing, but kept nodding.

The driver stopped at the foot of yet another hill. This time a even narrower and steep road up. He signalled that my destination was right on top (and that I should get off and walk there), and I could see it from the app on his phone. I on the other hand, being the living devil that I was, mentioned to him that it didn’t look like he could end the trip on the Uber app since he wasn’t close to the destination enough. 10 seconds of silence and then he started the engine again, this time onto that dangerously narrow and overgrown path up this last hill.

At long last, we were there. I briefly thanked him and got out, paying no tribute to the blobs of sweat on his head. His car seemed to have anchored there, and I realized this was more like a 8.5 soles (2.4 USD) one-way trip. Since there was no way in hell he could get a passenger from near here. I silently wished him a safe journey back. Oh, the misery of man.

The Encounter

It was a year-round openair exhibition featuring dozens of life-size sculptures of my fellow aliens by the local artist, Tupaq Kamariy Candia, and had been going on for 3 years. The entrance fee was 10 soles. There were a few other local visitors there, having arrived in their motorbikes or SUVs.

An Ariel Image of the Site. Google Map.

The exhibition area was a compact space of around 30m by 30m. A silver flying saucer hung on top of a rocky hill. Many of the sculptures on display were also blended with the local cultural elements, think Inka aliens. Some couples and families were around. I had to wait around for a bit for them to go away to take pictures as I liked. Not much happened during my time inside, so I’m just gonna put some photos here. Most of the photos can be clicked to enlarge. I’m still new to editing Raw and all of these are experiments.

An Exit Sign Pointing up. Jun 2025.
Área 21
The Encounter

The Retreat

The Catcher in the Rye. Jun 2025.

I spent a good hour inside Área 21, and by the time I got out, it was past four. Then came the horrifying realization that I might not get a Uber. It would take more than an hour and a half to walk back— at least it was downhill all the way, and if my calculations were correct, I would still be able to make it back by sunset. Though, I still tried my luck with the app, and sure enough I got a driver right away, who was like 30 minutes away — and who cancelled after ten minutes of trying to navigate here. Then I searched again, oh? And this time I was immediately matched and cancelled. Then again, same result. Then again, the driver sent a message asking me to cancel from my side. If you changed your mind, you gotta do it yourself, buddy.

Heck, I’ll just walk. I tried one last time and got another driver from 20+ minutes away, at a price which was exactly three times of what I paid to get here, though frankly a well-justified price. Nonetheless, I started to walk down to save both me and the driver some trouble, and met the driver halfway: a mid-age dude in a old red car, who was pleasantly surprised to find me halfway up the hills. After another excruciating 20 minutes traversing the terrain, we finally made it back town and stopped at the exact same location at the plaza where I boarded the previous Uber.

“Hoo— Haha, we’re finally here!” said the driver, wiping sweat off his forehand… to a silence that swallowed the words whole.

“…”

He turned ever so slightly, as if he had just noticed some phantasmagoric horror.

In the rear-view mirror, something waited in the backseat, grinning as it raised a hand not quite earth-like—three long digits curling in a mockery of a wave. Its skin was a pallid grey that seemed to drink the light, stretched taut over a skull too narrow and eyes too wide, dark pits that watched him without blinking.

“Thanksss for the ride, my fellow, uhh… humannn…”

Camera: Nikon Z7
Lens: Nikkor Z 24-120mm f/4 S